Cigarettes smuggling in Anatolia

The plan was simple and cost-effective. I was supposed to buy the ticket for a daily bus line connecting Urumié (Iran), with Van (Turkey).

Iranian Sanda and Wushu League

While in Tehran, I went with Reza to attend the Sanda and Wushu League. Reza is a retired Sanda fighter, now playing as referee and member of the Jurì during official competitions. He invited me to join him in the Sanda and Wushu League, which is played every Sunday. I was introduced as Special Italian Guest - Reza loves to create brand new gloriously fake identities for me according to the situation - and I gained to move freely around the pitches to take pictures, and three kisses on the cheeks plus a sudden kiss on the lips as special bonus for special guests.

Tehran in a glance

I left Tashkent without having booked an hotel, bought a guide or city map, and without being able to get in touch with anyone of the people I was introduced to by email. Before landing, I already had two offers for a ride in town, and one offer for accommodation as a guest. Before leaving the airport, the latter raised up to three. This is just to give you a practical example of how much a government can differ from the population it rules on. I visited many countries, I know friends - very good friends - from a number of different states, but I never met such a hearty felt sense of hospitality for unknown foreigners. If I am able to consider Tehran as one of the best experiences in my life, this is all because of Mr. Soudi, Reza, and Azadeh. These three people, among many others, dedicated a lot of their time driving me around to see the city and meet their friends, acted as translators and offered me shelter. They introduced me to some secrets of Tehran, ad it's my pleasure to share some sparkles of its beauty with all of you. From now on, don't trust the media when it comes to Iran. Ask Iranian people instead.